September in Georgia marks a sweet threshold for tender summer squashes. Two-tone Zephyr zucchini, crookneck and pattypan squash share market tables with the first heavy-bottomed heirloom winter varieties, like the prized North Georgia Candy Roaster.
Whether roasted until soft and caramelized, pureed or peeled in fresh veggie ribbons, September’s abundant harvest offers the ultimate bridge between late-summer sun and early-autumn comfort. Here’s how 10 local restaurants celebrate the season.
Harvest plate at the Deer and the Dove
This offers the season’s best distilled onto one plate. Squash takes the lead two ways, with roasted Hickory Hill Farm’s Zephyr squash in “steak” form and a silky squash-miso cream, layered with Anson Mills’ farro verde and blistered Woodland Gardens lunchbox peppers. A watermelon vinegar gel cuts through with acid, while rooftop herbs and shaved Parmesan cheese finish it with an herbal, savory lift.
155 Sycamore St., Decatur. 404-748-4617, deerdove.com
Credit: Cam McMinn
Credit: Cam McMinn
Summer squash at Bread & Butterfly
Bread & Butterfly offers tender grill-charred planks of yellow squash and Hickory Hill Farm’s zephyr zucchini, piled over a smooth base of labneh, with dustings of aromatic and earthy za’atar and the citrus punch of tagine elevating late summer’s abundant crop. Chef Demetrius Brown spritzes fresh lemon for a brightening touch.
290 Elizabeth St. NE, Atlanta. 678-515-4536, bread-and-butterfly.com
Credit: Matt Wong
Credit: Matt Wong
Hudson Valley duck at Lazy Betty
Executive chef Ron Hsu showcases squash in full seasonal bloom, pairing lavender-scented duck with a blossom stuffed with house-made duck sausage, slow-confited in duck fat. The dish is anchored by a rich summer ragu featuring hand-scooped pearls of heirloom yellow and green zucchini, pickled caper blossoms and foraged button chanterelles simmered in duck jus. When baby zucchini come attached to the blossoms, they are scored, seared and added to the plate, giving the dish an extra layer of caramelized, field-fresh crunch.
999 Peachtree St. NE, Atlanta. 470-851-1199, lazybettyatl.com
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Chicken paillard at Sargent
Pounded almost tortilla-thin, a tender chicken breast is seared and draped with delicate ribbons of fresh summer squash and zucchini. A bright, savory piperade adds a pop of sweet pepper and acidic tomato balance, while shavings of pecorino bring a sharp, salty finish to this fresh, light and elevated plate.
405 N. Angier Ave. NE, Atlanta. 404-855-5549, sargent-atlanta.com
Credit: Zachary Bobo
Credit: Zachary Bobo
Blossom fritti at Amalfi Cucina + Mercato
Tender zucchini blossoms stuffed with a creamy blend of mozzarella and Parmesan cheese are flash-fried in a delicate, tempura-style batter until golden at Amalfi in the 207 Peachtree development in downtown Atlanta. They remain crisp on the outside with a velvety, melted center, each bite finished with a bright house-made pesto.
17 Andrew Young International Blvd., Atlanta. 404-882-1740, amalfiatl.com
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Smash salad at Last Dance
Like a Southern version of a Thai som tum, this vibrant smash salad pounds together crisp summer squash, sweet cantaloupe, crunchy bok choy, cabbage and fresh tomatoes. Tossed in a bright, green herb sauce spiked with punchy golden datil peppers, it hits every taste bud note. It’s already a menu staple and customized to your heat preference, from a gentle warm-up to full-on fiery.
124 N. Avondale Rd., Avondale Estates. 404-975-3537, lastdanceatl.com
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
Zucchini pizza at Indaco
Round slivers of local summer zucchini blanket this seasonal wood-fired pie, paired with dollops of creamy ricotta and rich, deeply concentrated tomato estratto. Sweet red onion and dried oregano balance the tart tomato base, while a scatter of crushed pistachios delivers a nutty crunch to every bite.
725 Ponce de Leon Ave. NE, Atlanta. 404-205-5183, indacorestaurant.com
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Summer squash stuffed pasta at BoccaLupo
House-made, delicate parcels of pasta are stuffed with tender summer squash, tasting nostalgically like a Southern squash casserole, all wrapped into a single bite. Paired with morsels of fresh red snapper and Habanada chile pepper passata, the pasta rests in a velvety sauce with a glossy drizzle of herb oil and a flurry of fresh herbs.
753 Edgewood Ave. NE, 404-577-2332, boccalupoatl.com
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Kabocha squash salad at Little Bear
Known for clever, unexpected pairings, Little Bear celebrates squash in a striking salad of roasted kabocha tossed in a punchy garlic dressing. Packed with contrasting textures, the dish layers preserved Georgia grapefruit, dehydrated blueberries, fresh mint and pickled red onions, all elevated by a salty-savory kick of house-made trout skin spice.
71 Georgia Ave., Atlanta. 404-500-5396, littlebearatl.com
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
Spaghetti squash and cornmeal johnnycake at Miller Union
Squash is all over the current menu at Miller Union, with a Southern standout in a dish featuring tender strands of spaghetti squash and a golden cornmeal johnnycake, layered with salty country ham and tangy fresh chevre. A subtle kiss of sweet fig jam balances every rich, savory bite.
999 Brady Ave. NW, Atlanta. 678-733-8550, millerunion.com
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