There’s a magical quality to Cuevacia, the new modern Mexican restaurant in Colony Square, a bit like the wardrobe portal to Narnia. Crossing the threshold transports you to a world that feels bigger and more richly detailed than anyone outside could have reasonably expected.
Cuevacia took over a semi-subterranean space next to the Colony Square valet stand that was formerly occupied by fast-casual sushi restaurant Sukoshi. The sterile counter-service space was converted into a multilevel experiential restaurant with a truly unique design.
Credit: Courtesy of Bryce France
Credit: Courtesy of Bryce France
Restaurant owner William Pitts said the idea for Cuevacia’s layout came to him the moment he first saw the space, though his vision must have sounded completely unrealistic at the time. The ceilings are just 12 feet tall — how could that be broken into two levels?
That singular vision is likely what makes Cuevacia’s design so successful. The concept goes against conventional restaurant wisdom in many ways: adding stairs where none existed, building inflexible booths into the walls and emphasizing the basement-like setting with lots of natural stone. Yet Cuevacia is uniquely immersive because of its full commitment to such a specific, counterintuitive vibe. Inspired by the Old World architecture still found in the rugged state of Oaxaca in southern Mexico, Cuevacia feels cozy rather than cavernous.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
The lower level of the restaurant is anchored by the bar with intimate, cavelike booths around the perimeter. The velvet-upholstered “cuevas” are set into the wall below the upper seating area; their walls, clad in real stone imported from Mexico, close out the world around you.
On the left, stairs lead to a balcony seating area with windows that look onto the restaurant’s patio and Peachtree Street beyond. Some balcony diners can also see down to the bar and into the booths below. The upper level is more social and interactive, though I think everyone looks at the caves downstairs with a little jealousy.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
With its beautiful interior and central location in Midtown, Cuevacia could probably make money without serving good food. I’m happy to report it excels on the culinary side, as well. Cuevacia is much more than social media bait, even if its design steals the show.
The cocktail menu was created by Eric Bradley, the beverage director who also runs the bar at sister restaurant Saints + Council. The selection is balanced, with options that serve a variety of tastes. The Esperanza, with hibiscus-infused sotol (an agave spirit similar to tequila) and spicy “firewater” tincture, is refreshing, while the Palo Santo is richer, with raicilla (another agave spirit), Madeira, pisco and xocolatl mole bitters. The classic margarita is also nice thanks to the subtle floral addition of orange blossom.
Credit: Courtesy of Bryce France
Credit: Courtesy of Bryce France
Each meal at Cuevacia starts with what Pitts called the “provechito,” a Mexican Spanish phrase similar to “bon appétit” in French. Cuevacia’s provechito includes tiny dishes of roasted corn, sweet pepitas and melted queso, a bit like an amuse bouche. The small welcome gift from the kitchen sets a tone of warm hospitality and takes the place of the stereotypical chips and salsa that some customers still expect when visiting a Mexican restaurant.
The menu focuses mostly on Oaxacan classics, and the kitchen puts intense effort into traditional dishes like multiple mole sauces and the freshly made corn tortillas. One of the mole sauces has 37 ingredients, and dedicated cooks make more than 2,000 fresh tortillas from scratch each day, Pitts said.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
The menu has several dishes that will be familiar to Tex-Mex lovers, like a rich queso fundido that often results in a photo-ready cheese-pull, and guacamole plussed up with enough mango to add a subtle touch of sweetness to the classic avocado spread.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
There are tacos, quesadillas and enchiladas, all made with a little more thought than the typical Tex-Mex fare, but the regional Oaxacan dishes shine brighter. An octopus appetizer, one of the most popular options on the menu, is almost as tender as warm butter, complimented by an assertively spicy green poblano sauce. Cuevacia serves tetelas, a tortilla-based dish similar to a quesadilla but shaped like a triangle. And the Tamal Oaxaqueno is a familiar tamale filled with chicken but enrobed in a dark, deeply flavored mole sauce.
Cuevacia’s spectacular design paired with its solid food and drink has made it very popular in its early days, a dream come true for any restaurateur, Pitts admitted. With popularity can come some service challenges, though the staff is clearly competent and well-trained.
The need to turn over tables can lead servers to be almost too efficient, making them feel a little rigid or causing an awkward pacing to the meal. When you order something at Cuevacia, you better be ready because it will arrive at your table post haste.
I discovered this when I ordered a salad at the same time my wife and I ordered entrees, assuming the greens would be delivered first. Instead, the entrees showed up quicker than expected, and the salad came several minutes after our main dishes.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
Minor quibbles aside, Cuevacia is a wonderful restaurant that will likely remain popular for a long time. It’s the rare place that can be an exciting adventure one night, then intimate and romantic the next. It’s great for both people-watching or feeling like you’ve disappeared into your own private grotto. Cuevacia isn’t quite Narnia, but it does feel a little magical.
Cuevacia
4 out of 5 stars (excellent)
Food: modern Mexican, Oaxacan
Service: prompt and professional, if occasionally rigid
Noise level: loud
Recommended dishes: queso fundido con chorizo, pulpo de poblano asado, guacamole con totopos, elote asado, tacos de pollo en tinga, birria de chivo, tamal Oaxaqueno, tetela con pollo, chocolate tres leches cake
Vegetarian dishes: guacamole con totopos, tacos de hongos, ensalada de risada, vegetales de la Sierra, enchiladas de queso, frijoles de la olla, arroz verde, platano con agave, totopos, tortillas, queso de mole
Alcohol: full bar with a creative cocktails and a solid wine selection largely from Spain and Latin America, along with some interesting beers
Price range: about $50-$100 per person, excluding drinks
Hours: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and 4:30-11 p.m. Monday-Friday; 10 a.m.-3 p.m. and 4:30-11 p.m. Saturday-Sunday
Accessibility: fully ADA accessible on ground floor, but make sure to note needs in reservation
Parking: paid deck with two hours validated by restaurant
Nearest MARTA station: Arts Center Station
Reservations: recommended, available on OpenTable
Outdoor dining: yes
Takeout: not at the time of review
Address, phone: 1201 Peachtree St. NE, Atlanta. 404-448-1022
Website: cuevacia.com
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution’s dining critics conduct reviews anonymously. Reservations are not made in their name, nor do they provide restaurants with advance notice about their visits. Our critics always make multiple visits, sample the full range of the menu and pay for all their meals. AJC dining critics wait at least one month after a new restaurant has opened before visiting.
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